Wednesday, September 05, 2007
My Favorite Sock Pattern
My favorite sock pattern (designed by me). It's a lacy rib that combines the beauty of lace, yet is stretchy for good fit.
The socks in the picture are made using a sock club yarn from Sundara, "Fall Foliage" which is no longer available, unfortunately; however, there are so many other beautiful color options on her website.
Try this link: Google document file
Here's my sock pattern:
LACE-RIB PATTERN SOCKS (DESIGNED BY KAREN KAHANE c. 1990)
MATERIALS: 100 grams sock yarn (fingering-weight yarn, 7.5-9 sts. per
inch); one set double-pointed needles, size 1 (or size to get gauge);
reinforcement yarn (optional).
GAUGE: 15 sts = 2 inches in pattern st. (lace-rib stitch is stretchy, so this is approximate)
LACE-RIB PATTERN STITCH: (multiple of 9) (make sure to start lace
pattern as stated)
Rnd 1: *k 2 tog, yo, k 1, yo, ssk, p 1, k 2, p 1. Repeat from * around.
Rnds 2, 3, 4: *k 5, p 1, k 2, p 1. Rep from *.
ALTERNATIVE CUFF RIB PATTERN 2 (worked over 63 sts): *K1, P1, K1, P1, K1, P1, K2, P1. Repeat from * around. (This rib is an alternative to the plain K1P1 rib; the K2 should line up with the K2 in the lace-rib pattern.)
START: Using dp ndls, loosely cast on 64 sts. (Tip: use larger ndl
for cast-on round.) Join and work around in k1p1 rib (or cast on 63 sts and work alternative cuff rib pattern 2) for 3 inches (32 rows). (NOTE: Work cuff for only 2 inches, or less, if your patience wears thin.) K 1 rnd plain, dec'g 1 st in last st = 63 sts. Start lace pattern, work around in pattern for 16 repeats (about 6 inches), or whatever your desired length is. End after Rnd 3.
HEEL FLAP: K 14, place remaining instep sts on next ndl; turn, sl 1,
p 31 (these 32 sts are the heel flap sts); slip rem sts onto next ndl.
(Heel flap sts = 32; instep patt sts = 31) Adjust instep sts,
dividing them onto 2 holding ndls. Working only on heel flap 32 sts,
attach reinforcing yarn (if used) and work Heel Stitch as follows:
Row 1 (right side): Sl 1, k 1, repeat across.
Row 2: Sl 1, p across.
Work 30 rows (15 slipped k sts on right side); end with Row 2.
TURNING HEEL: Work heel turn as follows:
Row 1 (right side): Sl 1, k 16, SSK, k 1, turn.
Row 2: Sl 1, p 5, p 2 tog, p 1, turn.
Row 3: Sl 1, k 6, SSK, k 1, turn.
Row 4: Sl 1, p 7, p 2 tog, p 1, turn.
Continue as established, decreasing until all sts are used up; end
with right-side row, do not turn, do not dec on last row (20 sts
total). Break off reinforcing yarn.
GUSSET: (Right side facing) With Needle 1, pick up 16 sts along
loops on inside edge of heel flap; pick up and twist an extra st at
juncture of flap and instep. On Needle 2, continue working pattern
(resume with Row 4) across instep (31 sts). With Needle 3, pick up
and twist an extra st, then pick up 16 sts along second edge of heel
flap. Continue on heel flap sts, ending round at center back of heel
(85 sts total). Adjust stitches on needles: Place 27 sts on Needle
1, 31 instep pattern stitches together on Needle 2, 27 stitches on
Needle 3.
Decrease rnd: Ndl 1: K to last 3 sts, k 2 tog, k 1. Ndl 2: Work
instep patt as established. Ndl 3: K 1, SSK, k to end of rnd.
Repeat decrease round EVERY OTHER ROUND 12 times until a total of 61
sts remain (31 instep patt sts on Ndl 2, and 15 sts on each of Ndls 1
and 3).
Work even in pattern on 31 sts of instep, knit remaining 30 sts
until foot measures 4 1/2 to 5 1/2 inches (or desired length *see fit
tip note) from heel flap. End after Rnd 3, decreasing 1 st in pattern
section = 60 sts.
Next row: K around, joining in reinforcement yarn.
TOE SHAPING: Divide sts on ndls as follows: Ndl 1 = 15 sts; Ndl 2
(top of toe) = 30 sts; Ndl 3 = 15 sts.
Decrease rnd: Ndl 1: K to last 3 sts, k 2 tog, k 1. Ndl 2: K 1,
SSK, k to last 3 sts, k 2 tog, k 1. Ndl 3: K1, SSK, k to end of rnd.
Repeat decrease rnd EVERY OTHER RND until 20 sts remain, ending at
side of toe. Break yarn, leaving about 15 inches to graft toe
together. Place toe sts on 2 ndls; graft sts together. Darn in ends.
FIT TIP: If your foot is narrow, work one or two additional decrease
rnds in gusset, adjusting total number of sts accordingly. Sock
should fit fairly snugly to show off lace pattern.
Approximate sizing: Size 6 foot = 13 lace patt reps; Size 7 = 14;
Size 8 = 15 (16?); Size 9 = 17. (For finer-weight sock yarns, may
need to add 1 patt rep to each size. Try sock on before starting toe
decs; should be even with base of big toe.)
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7 comments:
I have been trying to print your free sock pattern "Lace-Rib Pattern Sock". There is a problem with displaying the pages. The page with most of the instructions is BEHIND the other pages and will not print. My girlfriend also tried from her computer and she could not get it to display or print either. Can you do anything from your end? This is the pattern my teacher was knitting so I wanted to try it as well.
Thank you in advance.
Ourneedtobead@yahoo.com
I made a link to a pdf file for future downloads - thanks for the interest!
Hi Karen, I really love this sock pattern, but I was wondering, is there a mistake with the rib cuff? it says "*K1, P1, K1, P1, K1, P1, K2, P1. Repeat from * around." Shouldn't it be "*K1, P1, K1, P1, K1, P1, K1, P1. Repeat from * around."
Thanks Jasmin
Hi Jasmin - I should have made it clearer that the cuff pattern #2 is an alternate pattern, that matches up with the lace-rib stitch pattern in the leg of the sock. The "K2" in the rib will continue into the "K2" in the lace-rib stitch pattern. Thank you for the comment!
ok, stupid question. When knitting the heel, you call for a reinforcing yarn, do I knit with 2 strands here? I have never seen this in a pattern.
Thanks!
Hi Kimi - not a "stupid question" at all. Sock reinforcing yarn is available in some yarn stores as a thin, lightweight fuzzy nylon blend yarn specifically designed for reinforcing heels and toes of socks; it's held together with the sock yarn, and you knit the heels and toes with the two strands. Its use is optional (as mentioned in the materials list), and I seldom use it anymore unless I'm making socks using a handspun-style yarn that might be a little more loosely spun (and thus not durable), or one that doesn't have any nylon content. A good substitute is "Woolly Nylon" that can be found in sewing supply stores, which is, just as the name implies, a soft woolly lightweight thread. Thank you for asking your question, and I hope this helps.
--KarenK (ravelry name too)
These are lovely. Thanks for sharing the pattern!
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